Как узнать состав косметики: о чем говорят этикетки? Алкоголь в составе натуральной косметики: дружить или бояться? Как обозначается спирт в составе косметических средств

Сразу предупреждаю: это как раз тот случай, когда многие знания умножают печали. Научившись читать этикетки, я впала в настоящую депрессию — все мои иллюзии о волшебном мире косметики мигом развеялись. Помню, как провела чуть ли не час в магазине, медитируя над двумя банками крема. По цене они различались тысяч на пять, по составу — ни единым пунктом. Словом, я не верю в дорогую косметику. Зато верю в плохую и умею ее распознавать.

Начнем с упаковки. Стоит обратить внимание на такие надписи:

Alcohol Free

Эта косметика не содержит спирта, но, внимание, только этилового. Другие спирты — например, стеариловый или ланолиновый — могут быть в составе. Впрочем, они не так страшны для кожи, как этанол, но об этом чуть позже.

Cruelty-free / Not tested on animals

Означает, что некоторые из активных веществ не были протестированы на животных. Если вам нужен полностью безобидный, проверенный в лаборатории крем, ищите надпись No new testing или Not currently tested.

Noncomedogenic

Этот крем не содержит некоторых веществ, закупоривающих поры: парафинов, жирных кислот, некоторых масел, стеарата бутила и изопропила. Но ими список далеко не ограничивается, а потому нельзя с уверенностью сказать, что «некомедогенное» средство не вызовет акне.

Clinically proven / Dermatologically tested

Крем был протестирован на людях в течение максимум двух недель и не вызывает серьезных нарушений здоровья. От легкой вас никто не застрахует.

С упаковкой разобрались — перейдем к содержимому. Которое обычно являет собой сплошное разочарование. Чтобы понимать его масштабы, делим список ингредиентов на три равные части. Первая треть — это те вещества, общее содержание которых в креме составляет 90-95%. Вторая — 5-8%. Третья — 1-3%. В идеале, в первой трети должны быть полезные активные ингредиенты, а во второй и третьей — консерванты, отдушки и прочая небезопасная химия. Вот , содержание которых не должно превышать 1% (то есть они могут быть только в самом конце списка):

Propylene Glycol

Нефтепродукт, используется в увлажняющих средствах. Раздражает кожу, поражает печень и почки.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) и Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)

Мылящие ингредиенты большинства шампуней и пенок. Высушивают кожу, могут вызывать тошноту и головокружение.

Diethanolamine (DEA)

Входит в состав лосьонов и тоников для лица. Сам по себе неопасен, но может образовывать канцерогенные соединения с другими веществами.

Tryclosan

Широко используется в косметике для . Мощное антибактериальное средство, убивающее заодно и защитную микрофлору.

Triethanolamine (TEA)

Частые ингредиенты «деликатной» косметики. Они регулируют PH кожи, но раздражают слизистую глаз и накапливаются в организме, вызывая аллергию.

Talc. Тальк используется в кремах для тела. Часто содержит канцерогенную асбестовую пыль, вызывающую рак легких.

Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) и Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT)

Fragrance

Производители не обязаны писать подробный состав отдушки. Обычно она состоит из нескольких сотен компонентов, среди которых могут быть и токсичные. Следствия — аллергия и воспаления.

Glycerin

Глицерин — отличное увлажняющее средство, спору нет. Но в больших количествах он, наоборот, высушивает кожу. А самое главное — это основной инструмент косметического «развода». В сочетании с водой глицерин используется как универсальная увлажняющая формула в огромном количестве кремов, от масс-маркета до люкса. Если вы видите в составе дорогого средства на первом месте Aqua, Glycerin, проще купить в аптеке баночку чистого глицерина за 15 рублей.

Mineral oil (Petrolatum, Paraffinum Liquidum)

Минеральное масло (нефтепродукт) в косметике безвредно только в мизерной концентрации. Как правило, оно гарантированно закупоривает поры и вызывает акне.

Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol

Жирные спирты, обычно получаемые из кокосового масла. Они хорошо смягчают кожу, но также могут вызывать аллергические реакции.

Alcohol

Этиловый спирт применяется как антисептик почти во всех для жирной кожи. Ищите средства без него, иначе ранние морщины, шелушения и стянутость гарантированы.

Правильное содержание косметики

О том, какие ингредиенты в косметике нужно искать, я уже писала (). Важный момент — на этикетке они должны быть в первой трети списка. Рекламируемые «уникальные ингредиенты», которые должны моментально вас омолодить, часто занимают последние места в составе, т. е. их концентрация ничтожна мала.

Возьмем крем Chanel Sublimage Essential Regenerating Cream, обещающий обновить кожу за счет супервещества под названиемPlanifolia PFA. На первом месте традиционно вода с глицерином, далее - силикон и промышленное рапсовое масло (!). И только в конце списка мы видим наконец бедную Planifolia PFA, а также витамины Е, С и экстракты трав. Согласитесь, от крема за $350 ждешь немного большего. К слову, в моей любимой такое тоже бывает сплошь и рядом.

Не стоит отчаиваться, выкидывать всю «химию» и переходить на одни маски из огурца. Но вот этикетки читать обязательно нужно. Я согласна с Эсте Лаудер — покупая косметику, мы покупаем мечту. Но еще и продукт, в котором надо быть уверенным, как в или .

Наверное, любая девушка, смотрящая на состав косметического средства, периодически встречается с таким ингредиентом как алкоголь. И, наверное, у большинства из нас алкоголь ассоциируется с высокоградусной, неприятно пахнущей и довольно жесткой по своим свойствам бесцветной жидкостью. Самым распространенным отношением к алкоголю в составе косметики является негативное. А из-за того, что в общепринятом понимании алкоголь чрезвычайно сушит кожу, раздражает ее и лишает защитного слоя, то он допустим лишь для очень жирной кожи.

Попробуем разобраться, соответствует ли это понимание действительности. Тем более, что алкоголь иногда встречается в составах косметики, которая относится к натуральной и органической, поэтому интерес здесь совсем не праздный. Алкоголь обнаруживается у таких хороших марок как Madara, Weleda, Dr. Hauschka, Neal’s Yard Remedies и даже у Amala. Итак, зачем производители добавляют алкоголь в свои составы, как к алкоголю относиться и можно ли обойтись совсем без него?

Этиловый спирт, или «нехорошая» группа

Этиловый спирт (он же ethyl alcohol, ethanol или просто alcohol) является одним из наиболее распространенных видов алкоголя, используемых в косметике. Это тот же самый алкоголь, который встречается в топливе, алкогольных напитках, медицинских средствах. Из косметических средств алкоголь можно увидеть в составах гелей для душа, тоников для лица, аэрозолей, духов, ополаскивателей для полости рта. По сути это один и тот же этанол, хотя и используется в таких разных продуктах. Отличие здесь только в одном: алкоголь в косметике в большинстве случаев денатурирован, т.е. в него добавлен денатурант, что дает ему горький привкус. В основном это сделано для того, чтобы люди (особенно дети) не смогли выпить косметический продукт со спиртом.

В составах косметики такой денатурированный алкоголь указан как SD Alcohol или Alcohol Denat. Часто встречаются обозначения с цифрами, чтобы различать денатурированные спирты. К использованию в косметике и средствах гигиены одобрены несколько видов. Например, Specially Denatured (SD) Alcohol 3-A, SD Alcohol 23-A, SD Alcohol 30, SD Alcohol 39, SD Alcohol 39-B, SD Alcohol 39-C, SD Alcohol 40, SD Alcohol 40-B и SD Alcohol 40-C.

Этанол — это органическое соединение, одноатомный спирт с небольшим молекулярным весом. Обычно его получают путем спиртового брожения органических продуктов (зерна, картофеля, кукурузы, сахарного тростника). Также этанол можно получить синтетическим путем через гидратацию этилена, этот способ сейчас имеет большое промышленное распространение.

К «нехорошим» спиртам также относятся метанол (methanol) или метиловый спирт (methyl alcohol), бензиловый спирт (benzyl alcohol), изопропиловый спирт (isopropyl alcohol). В отличие от этанола, который может быть произведен натуральным способом, эти спирты производятся лишь синтетически и отличаются большой токсичностью.

В целом к группе «нехороших» спиртов относятся все нижеуказанные:

— алкоголь (аlcohol), этанол (ethanol), этиловый спирт (ethyl alcohol)

— денатурированный алкоголь (SD alcohol или alcohol denat) и его вариации типа SD Alcohol 40

— изопропанол (isopropanol), изопропиловый спирт или ИПС (isopropyl alcohol или IPA)

— менатол (methanol), метиловый спирт (methyl alcohol)

— бензиловый спирт (benzyl alcohol)

Если говорить о косметике, то всю эту группу объединяет высокая летучесть, а значит и способность чрезвычайно иссушать и раздражать кожу. Такие спирты действую на кожу крайне агрессивно, расширяют кровеносные сосуды, повышают чувствительность кожи, нарушают способность абсорбировать и метаболизировать витамин А. По поводу ретинола даже процитирую Paula Begoun, в отношении алкоголя в косметике она — моя единомышленница : «Alcohol is hurling retinol through the windows of your skin’s barrier without a second thought». Такие свойства этанола могут приводить к морщинам и запускать процессы преждевременного старения. Есть даже исследования, указывающие на то, что этанол может быть токсичным для клеток человека, приводя их к апоптозу (одной из форм гибели клетки).

Есть некоторые особенности использования этанола в косметике. Кроме способности обеспечивать быструю транспортацию ингредиентов , алкоголь имеет еще два важных свойства: (1) он используется как консервант и (2) он используется для приготовления экстрактов и настоек, поскольку спиртовой раствор позволяет экстрагировать полезные вещества из растений. Как раз такие производители как Weleda и Dr. Hauschka активно используют эти два свойства этанола.

Научные исследования о воздействии алкоголя на кожу

♦ Использование средств с алкоголем используется в косметической отрасли для более быстрого проникновения ингредиентов. Однако, этанол разрушает защитную способность кожи .

♦ Удаление естественного антимикробного защитного слоя кожи с помощью антисептиков и агрессивных синтетических чистящих средств ускоряет развитие инфекций. Обезвоженная и потрескавшаяся кожа с нарушенным липидным слоем не способна к саморегулированию и не может противостоять бактериям, микробам, плесени и ультрафиолету, подвергая риску весь организм.

♦ Сурфактанты (ПАВы) и алкоголь за счет своего иссушающего действия и вызываемого раздражения способствуют развитию акне вместо того, чтобы предотвращать их развитие.

♦ Этанол (в том виде, в каком встречается в косметике) является токсичным для клеток . Такая реакция зависит как от дозировки, так и от длительности воздействия, в обоих случаях влияя на рост процента клеток, подверженных апоптозу. Важным выводом исследования является то, что «даже при низких концентрациях этанол может приводить к апоптозу».

♦ Этанол действует как ускоритель проникновения веществ, что может способствовать трансдермальной абсорбции ксенобиотиков (чужеродных для человека химических веществ, например, канцерогенных примесей в косметике). Также это исследование говорит о связи этанола с раздражениями кожи и контактным дерматитом.

Нюансы по поводу «нехороших» спиртов

Если алкоголь используется в косметике в качестве консерванта, то он должен иметь концентрацию в составе более 10%, но чаще это не менее 20%. Именно поэтому алкоголь можно встретить на одном из первых мест в списке ингредиентов. 20% — это очень, очень много. Вне зависимости от формулы алкоголь все равно сушит кожу. Даже если этанол произведен из органической пшеницы путем ферментирования, он все равно сушит кожу, это его химическое свойство.

Этанол может быть органическим, поэтому именно organic алкоголь, разумеется, растительного происхождения (из органического зерна или органического винограда) чаще всего используется производителями натуральной и органической косметики. Этанол, произведенный из кукурузы, наводит на подозрения, что без ГМО здесь не обошлось.

Некоторые производители используют алкоголь в средствах для жирной кожи, уверяя, что таким образом кожа балансируется. Нужно иметь в виду, что балансировать кожу можно более щадящими и дружественными способами. Достаточно посмотреть на состав крема для жирной и проблемной кожи Pai Geranium & Thistle Combination Rebalancing Day Cream , этанола там в составе не будет.

Бензиловый спирт следует упомянуть особо, он используется в косметике по нескольким причинам: как консервант, как растворитель либо как ароматический спирт. В большинстве случаев бензиловый спирт производится синтетически, но также он встречается в натуральном виде, например, в зеленом чае, в ягодах (клубника) и в некоторых эфирных маслах (иланг-иланг и жасмин), хотя и в небольших концентрациях.

Глицерин, кстати, тоже спирт, но трехатомный. Об этом ингредиенте надо будет написать отдельно.

Еще один интересный момент: экстракты растений могут быть указаны именно как экстракты, но при этом не будет специального указания на то, что это спиртовой экстракт. Просто будет стоять что-то типа Camellia sinensis (White Tea Extract). В данном случае производитель не обязан обозначать алкоголь в качестве ингредиента.

Производители могут заявлять свои составы как безалкогольные (alcohol-free), но это может означать лишь то, что в составе не будет этанола. При этом в списке ингредиентов, например, будет находиться бензиловый спирт (benzyl alcohol).

Есть некоторые производители, которые ругают алкоголь в составах, хотя сами наполняют свои формулы токсичными и агрессивными ингредиентами. Исходя из здравого смысла, всегда лучше выбирать натурального производителя, использующего алкоголь, чем химический замес от противника алкоголя.

Жирные спирты, или «хорошая» группа

Оказывается, есть и другие спирты, которые называются «жирные спирты» или восковые спирты. Такие служат иным целям и имеют отличные от этанола свойства. В первую очередь речь идет о цетеариловом спирте (cetearyl alcohol), стеариловом спирте (stearyl alcohol) и цетиловом спирте (cetyl alcohol), которые используются в косметике в качестве эмульгаторов для вмешивания масел в воду и в качестве загустителей . Жирные спирты не сушат кожу в отличие от этанола, а их свойства могут быть даже полезными, поскольку имеют способность кондиционировать кожу и волосы.

Спирты из этой группы получают из растительного сырья, например, из кокоса или из пальмы. По текстуре такие спирты тоже отличаются от этанола, поскольку при комнатной температуре они представляют собой твердую воскообразную субстанцию чуть желтоватого оттенка. Для составления косметической формулы их специально растапливают. Люди с самой чувствительной кожей хорошо вопринимают жирные спирты, поэтому именно такие спирты можно встретить в составах натуральной и органической косметики.

Многих смущает даже само слово «алкоголь», потому что для большинства людей, читающих ингредиенты, алкоголь по умолчанию означает этанол. Однако, выходит, что жирные спирты наоборот весьма дружественные и полезные.

Чтобы не быть голословной, приведу состав самого щадящего крема Pai, разработанного для гиперчувствительной кожи Pai Chamomile & Rosehip Calming Day Cream . Пятым ингредиентом в составе указан цетеариловый спирт.

Ingredients: AQUA, PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL* (APRICOT KERNEL OIL), SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL* (JOJOBA OIL), CARTHAMUS TINCTORIUS SEED OIL* (THISTLE OIL), CETEARYL ALCOHOL (COCONUT-DERIVED EMULSIFIER) , GLYCERIN* (FROM VEGETABLE SOURCE), ROSA CANINA SEED EXTRACT* (CO2 ROSEHIP SEED EXTRACT), BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER* (SHEA BUTTER), CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE (CORN-DERIVED EMULSIFIER), LEPTOSPERMUM SCOPARIUM LEAF OIL (MANUKA OIL), SODIUM LEVULINATE (CORN EXTRACT), MIXED TOCOPHEROLS (NATURAL VITAMIN E), CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA EXTRACT* (CO2 CHAMOMILE EXTRACT), LAVANDULA OFFICINALIS FLOWER OIL* (LAVENDER OIL), SODIUM ANISATE (BASIL EXTRACT), PELARGONIUM GRAVEOLENS OIL* (ROSE GERANIUM OIL), LACTIC ACID (DERIVED FROM SUGAR BEET), GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE (FROM SUSTAINABLE PALM OIL), SODIUM LAUROYL LACTYLATE (FROM COCONUT OIL).

Виды жирных спиртов

Цетиловый спирт получается из кокосового масла и является смягчающим веществом, которое часто включают в состав косметики по уходу за кожей. Это делается для стабилизации формулы, либо для изменения консистенции продукта, либо для повышения его пенообразующих свойств. Цетиловый спирт можно встретить в составах детских лосьонов, кремов для рук, баз, помад, шампуней, туши, дезодорантов, средств для снятия лака. Кстати, раньше цетиловый спирт получали из китового жира.

Стеариловый спирт также получают преимущественно из кокосового масла или масла карите. Поскольку этот вид спирта является и смягчителем, и эмульгатором, он может заменять цетиловый спирт в некоторых формулах, чаще всего там, где требуется более твердая текстура.

Цетеариловый спирт является эмульгирующим воском, который способен смягчить плотную текстуру. Этот вид спирта является смесью цетилового и стеарилового спиртов и обладает свойствами их обоих. При этом цетеариловый спирт очень эффективен для стабилизации формулы продукта. Его используют в составах, где есть вода и масло, а также в составах без воды. Встречается в очищающих средствах, кремах для лица, декоративной косметике для глаз и в солнцезащитных средствах.

К натуральным жирным спиртам также относятся бегениловый спирт (behenyl alcohol) и арахидиловый спирт (arachidyl alcohol).

В этой группе еще находится ланолин , иначе шерстяной воск. Про него писать вообще не хочется, потому что его получают из путем вываривания сальных желез овечьей шерсти. Кстати, вы знаете, что витамин D3, который в некоторых странах добавляют в молоко, а также включают в ряд витаминных комплексов и добавок, получают из ланолина?

В этой группе «хороших» спиртов все хорошо за исключением небольшого момента. Он заключается в том, что из-за того, что жирные спирты являются воскообразными, иногда они могут быть комедогенными. Это «иногда» обуславливается формулой средства, а не просто наличием жирного спирта в составе. Чтобы быть комедогенным, ингредиент должен иметь способность проникать в фолликулы. Сами по себе жирные спирты не обладают таким свойством в полной мере. Однако, при наличии в составе ингредиента, способного увеличить пенетрацию жирного спирта в фолликулы, такой симбиоз в редких случаях может привести к закупориванию пор.

Резюме

После такого количества материала, наверное, кажется, что все слишком сложно. Но давайте подведем итог, на самом деле все довольно просто.

(1) «Нехорошие» спирты. В лучшем случае допустима только одна форма (органический этанол, он же био-алкоголь) и только в том случае, когда этанол не стоит в первой трети, а еще лучше — не в первой половине списка ингредиентов. Я знаю, что есть производители органической косметики, которые считают, что органический этанол является натуральным консервантом и стабилизатором, гораздо лучшим, чем парабены. И что их формула очень мягкая, что она не сушит кожу и прочее, прочее. Но есть и еще более мягкие формулы, более дружественные коже, поэтому появление спирта на первом-третьем месте в составе отнюдь не является необходимостью. Свою кожу нужно любить и выбирать лучшее для нее, а этанол для кожи лица отнюдь не лучший друг. Поэтому никому не буду советовать соглашаться с доводами таких производителей: ни обладательницам чувствительной кожи, ни обладательницам проблемной кожи.

Возможно, кого-то моя позиция в отношении алкоголя расстроит. Вполне допускаю, что у кого-то есть любимый, проверенный годами крем, который не хочется менять ни на что другое. Я бы посоветовала здесь следующее: если использовать такой крем раз в неделю, не думаю, что это имеет какие-то ужасные последствия. Но все же лучше и полезнее для кожи стараться делать это реже, подбирая для себя средство без алкоголя на замену. Если таких средств в арсенале несколько, то лучше поработать над тем, чтобы постепенно сократить их количество в обиходе. Если совсем отказаться никак нельзя, то пусть в уходе будет одно-единственное средство со спиртом, не больше.

Paula Begoun в отношении алкоголя еще более радикальна: она его ужасно ругает , говоря, что он «worst skin-care guest ever». У нее приведено хорошее обоснование такой позиции. Вкратце она звучит так: алкоголь — это pro-возрастной ингредиент. В отличие от антивозрастных ингредиентов, этанол однозначно способствует старению кожи. Ну хотя бы в чем-то одном наши с Полой мнения оказались близки, хотя ее резко негативное отношение к алкоголю кажется несколько чрезмерным.

По поводу бензилового спирта скажу отдельно, потому что он в косметике встречается очень часто и еще потому, что это ароматический спирт. Если в составе его содержится менее 1%, то это считается безопасным. Я иногда вижу benzyl alcohol в конце списка ингредиентов и отношусь к этому относительно спокойно. В идеале его быть не должно (особенно в креме для глаз), но если он все же есть, то он может быть только в сааааамом конце списка. Тогда это допустимо.

(2) «Хорошие» спирты. Их бояться не стоит, можно даже дружить с ними. От них больше пользы, чем вреда. Такие спирты встречаются в самых лучших марках органической косметики. У меня вот сейчас в ходу два крема, и у каждого есть цетеариловый спирт в составе. Мне кремы нравятся, кожа воспринимает их хорошо. Тем не менее, стоит иметь в виду, что иногда на жирные спирты могут быть реакции, высыпания, забивания пор. Особенно, если кожа чувствительная или проблемная. Могу допустить, что кому-то эти кремы не подойдут.

Какой же ответ можно дать на вопрос: «Можно ли обходиться совсем без алкоголя и жирных спиртов в косметике?» Да, можно. Если кто-то стремится к идеальному составу, то даже такие «хорошие» спирты не являются неизбежностью, можно найти средства и без них. В природе существует достаточное количество натуральных масел и баттеров, которые могут служить и как эмульгаторы, и как загустители.

Ну а тем, кто стремится к идеальному идеалу, напомню, что самыми чистыми составами обладают растительные масла, масляные сыворотки и , т.е. средства, не содержащие воду. Это решение — для пуристов и для перфекционистов.

Какие бывают спирты?

Спирты, которые используются в косметике в качестве самостоятельных ингредиентов, бывают т.н. жирные спирты и растворители. К жирным спиртам относятся цетиловый, лауриловый, стеариловый и др. В косметике они используются в качестве стабилизаторов и смягчителей, контролируют вязкость продукта.

К растворителям принадлежат этанол, изопропиловый и бензиловый спирты, глицерин (!), сорбитол, пропиленгликоль и др. Эти компоненты обладают антибактериальными, бактерицидными, увлажняющими свойствами. Кроме того, их используют для приготовления экстрактов и спиртовых настоек.

Цетиловый спирт (Cetyl alcohol)
Раньше этот компонент получали из спермацета, вещества из фиброзного мешка кашалота. В результате запрета китобойного промысла, его стали производит из растительного сырья, в частности, пальмового масла.

Цетиловый спирт оказывает на кожу смягчающее воздействие, делает её мягкой и шелковистой, но не препятствует свободной циркуляции воздуха. За счет уменьшения испарения воды (окклюзивного эффекта) этот ингредиент полезен в кремах для сухой кожи и холодного времени года. Кроме того, он используется в кондиционерах для волос (облегчает расчесывание), средствах для губ (образует влагоудерживающую пленку) и в очищающих продуктах.

Лауриловый спирт (Lauryl Alcohol)
Этот ингредиент получают как из синтетического, так и растительного сырья (кокосовое или пальмовое масло). В косметике он используется в качестве смягчителя, эмульгатора и стабилизатора эмульсии.

Лауриловый спирт хорошо влияет на волосы, делает их послушными и мягкими, при этом эффект будет длиться примерно сутки. Даже если компонент получен из растительного сырья, он может раздражать кожу в средствах, которые не смываются с кожи. Поэтому чаще всего его используют в кондиционерах и очищающих продуктах.

Стеариловый спирт (Stearyl Alcohol)
Стеариловый спирт получают из стеариновой кислоты, кокосового масла или растительных жирных кислот. Как и другие жирные спирты, он используется за свои смягчающие свойства, в качестве кондиционера, эмульгатора эмульсии, регулятора вязкости. У людей с чувствительной кожей может вызывать раздражение.

Этиловый спирт (Alcohol, Ethanol)
Спирт, который алкоголь. Один из основных компонентов, который используется в биокосметике, преимущественно немецкого производства. Органический этанол получают из сертифицированного сырья, например, пшеницы.

Спирт выступает в качестве растворителя, при концентрации выше 10% становится консервантом. Он обладает бактерицидными и антисептическими свойствами. На его основе делаются растительные экстракты и вытяжки, используют в качестве растворителя для душистых компонентов (эфирных масел, отдушки) и малорастворимых биологически активных веществ.

Спирт в косметике может сушить сухую и чувствительную кожу, хотя в кремы для лица его вводят не более 5%.

Изопропиловый спирт (Isopropyl Alcohol, Isopropanol)
Используется в качестве консерванта и растворителя для других ингредиентов. Часто выступает в качестве заменителя этанола.

Бензиловый спирт (Benzyl Alcohol)
Органическое душистое соединение, компонент эфирных масел (иланг-иланга, жасмина). Используется в качестве консерванта и отдушки. Безопасен при уровне концентрации до 1%, но по некоторым данным, может вызвать аллергическую реакцию, когда используется в средствах для ингаляции.

Бензиловый спирт - это один из двадцати шести аллергенных веществ, присутствие которых должно указываться на упаковке по правилам европейской директивы для косметических продуктов.

Глицерин (Glycerin)
Про глицерин мы подробно . Скажем лишь, что это хороший увлажняющий ингредиент, который может быть как синтетическим, так и натуральным, и используется не только в косметике, но и в пищевой промышленности.

Сорбитол (Sorbitol)
Содержится во многих фруктах, в пищевой промышленности используется как заменитель сахара для больных диабетом. Являясь увлажнителем и загустителем, в косметике применяется в качестве замены глицерина. Придает сладкий вкус в средствах по уходу за полостью рта (пасты, полоскания).

Пропиленгликоль (Propylene Glycol)
Этот ингредиент используется в качестве растворителя многих косметических ингредиентов: красителей, смол, экстрактов и пр. Кроме того, он увлажняет кожу и снижает температуру замерзания косметических изделий, например, туши для ресниц. Подробнее о нем можно прочитать , добавим лишь, что биосертификат COSMOS разрешил пропиленгликоль для использования в натуральной и органической косметике.

Источники:
sostav-info.ru
Т. Пучкова, Л. Самуйлова «Косметическая химия. Ингредиенты»

ALCOHOL — это спирт. CETEARYL ALCOHOL — цетиловый и цетеариловый спирты. Цетиловый и цетеариловый спирты — одноатомные спирты с числом атомов углерода соответственно 18 и 16/18 (последний представляет собой физическую смесь углеродных цепочек с числом атомов 16 и 18). Служат структурообразователями и эмолентами в эмульсиях (смягчитель). Такие спирты могут иметь натуральное или синтетическое происхождение. В косметике используются как растворитель, эмульгатор, загуститель, структурная основа для других ингредиентов.

В косметике CETEARYL ALCOHOL применяется для:

• Уменьшения количество образующейся пены, либо полностью предотвращают ее появление. Применяется в основном в кремах и бальзамах для волос.
• Активные ингредиенты в противомикробных препаратах.
• Добавляют для стягивания пор или как кровоостанавливающие.
• Натуральные или синтетические вещества, придающие косметике приятный запах.
• Используются для растворения и смешивания ингредиентов между собой.
• Увеличивают текучесть косметики без существенного понижения концентрации активных компонентов.
• Используют для растворения ингредиентов в косметике.

Возможные негативные последствия использования в косметике: может стать причиной появления раздражения на коже, аллергии, дерматитов.

• Цветовые палитры для и цветотипов

Отзывы

Отзывов: 351 на «ALCOHOL, CETEARYL ALCOHOL в косметике»

Вообще-то аллергию или раздражение на коже может вызвать любой косметический ингредиент. Всегда есть фактор индивидуальной непереносимости. С точки рения ее все практически ингредиенты можно описывать как опасные.

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Несмотря на достаточно распространенное мнение о вреде спиртов в составе любых косметических средств, эти вещества абсолютно безопасны для кожи человека, нужно лишь соблюдать рекомендации по использованию и дозировки во время нанесения спиртсодержащей косметики. Вред от применения цетилстеарилового спирта в косметике на практике почти невозможен, а теоретически, конечно, вероятен. Выбирая уходовое средство, в состав которого входит цетилстеарил, нужно обратить внимание на концентрацию вещества, поскольку возможный вред от его применения ограничивается только индивидуальной непереносимостью цетилового спирта или одного из его вспомогательных ингредиентов.

Описание и свойства цетилстеарила

Цетилстеариловый спирт (Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceto Stearyl Alcohol или цетеариловый спирт) получают путем соединения цетилового и стеарилового спиртов в одинаковом соотношении, а в природных условиях вещество имеет вид гранул белого цвета и специфического запаха. Вещество плохо растворяется в воде, плавится при температуре 49-56 градусов. Источник получения спирта – пальмовое масло, которое современные производители получают в результате искусственного синтеза. Вещество отлично растворяется в других спиртах, маслах и эфирах.

Какие спирты считаются вредными?

К категории вредных спиртов относится этиловый спирт, известный еще как alcohol, ethyl alcohol, ethanol. Одно из названий этилового спирта можно встретить на упаковках с лекарственными препаратами и косметическими средствами, такими как гели и тоники для кожи. Также этил добавляют в различные аэрозоли, парфюмерию и зубные пасты. Этиловый спирт содержится в разнообразных продуктах, даже в топливе и алкогольных напитках.

Перед добавлением вещества в косметические препараты, производители денатурируют этиловый спирт, что впоследствии обозначается на упаковке как СД алкоголь/SD alcohol. Несмотря на то, что в результате денатурации, спирт приобретает неприятный запах и горький привкус, он абсолютно безвреден для организма человека, если попадает туда в небольшом количестве.

Чем опасен этанол и другие вредные спирты

В отличие от этанола, который образуется в результате естественного процесса брожения природных продуктов и является органическим соединением, бензиловый, метиловый и изопропиловый спирты создаются путем синтетического синтеза и могут вызвать такие побочные явления, как:

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• преждевременное старение и гибель клеток;
• развитие аллергических реакций и дерматитов.

Что касается этанола, он может немного подсушивать кожу. Вещество добавляют в косметические средства как консервант и антисептик. Большинство производителей утверждают, что именно органический этанол является наиболее щадящим видом спирта для кожного покрова. Но современная наука не стоит на месте, ученые предлагают еще более безопасные для кожи варианты, что делает применение этанола необязательным.

Сферы применения цетилстеарилового спирта

Цетилстеарил успешно применяют в промышленности, добавляя его в состав различных растворителей, смазок, средства для мытья посуды и в некоторые лекарственные препараты. Спирт также активно используют в косметологии в качестве добавки в такие средства:

• лак для волос;
• дезодорант;
• масло для укрепления ресниц;
• загуститель для шампуня;
• маски для волос;
• эмульгатор для растительных продуктов;
• регулятор вязкости;
• косметика для ухода за кожей рук (кремы и бальзамы);
• эмульгатор для крема;
• эмульгатор ухаживающих масок для волос;
• средства для эпиляции;
• антисептические препараты.

Цетилстеариловый спирт способствует удержанию влаги в губной помаде, кремах и других косметических препаратах.

Чем полезен цетилстеариловый спирт?

Главное преимущество цетилстеарила в том, что это вещество практически не имеет побочных эффектов, что гарантирует безопасное использование косметики с добавлением данного вида спирта. К другим спиртам, таким как бензиловый, этиловый, изопропиловый и метиловый, нужно относиться крайне осторожно, поскольку они относятся к веществам, опасным для здоровья человека.

Цетилстеариловый спирт обладает следующими полезными свойствами:

• смягчает и хорошо дезинфицирует кожу;
• способствует ;
• удерживает влагу;
• используется в качестве кровоостанавливающего средства.

Выбирая косметику, следует внимательно изучить ее состав и учитывать концентрацию спирта, которая должна соответствовать таким показателям:

1. 1-4% в средствах для волос (маска, шампунь или бальзам);
2. 1-4% в кремах;
3. 0,5-2% в косметическом молочке и лосьонах;
4. до 50% в дезодорантах.

Обзор покупных косметических препаратов с содержанием цетилстеарилового спирта

Средства с цетилстеариловым спиртом нельзя отнести к категории дешевой косметики, которую можно приобрести по бюджетной цене. Некоторые препараты с содержанием этого достаточно редкого вещества могут достигать цены до 10000 рублей, поэтому нужно быть готовым к серьезным расходам или же заняться поиском более доступного варианта.

• Увлажняющее молочко для ухода за телом Ictyane (500 мл) от производителя Ducray

Средство упаковано в очень удобный флакон с помпой, что облегчает нанесение молочка на кожный покров. Единственное преимущество этого косметического препарата – защита кожи от обезвоживания. Как утверждают покупатели, других достоинств у этого средства нет. Из-за высокой цены увлажняющее молочко Ictyane нельзя назвать бюджетным вариантом.

• Крем Nectar De Roses (40 мл)от Melvita

Отличное средство для защиты кожи от солнечных лучей с фильтром SPF 15. Препятствует естественному старению кожи, рекомендован в качестве увлажняющего средства, которое также защищает клетки от воздействия свободных радикалов. Крем довольно дорогой, но очень эффективный.

• Косметика, содержащая цетеарил, от производителя Deoproce (Южная Корея)

В состав косметики от южнокорейской компании Deoproce входят мягкие эмульсии. Которые быстро распадаются при нанесении на кожный покров и волосы. Именно поэтому шампуни, гели для волос и душа, а также средства для очищения кожи при регулярном использовании дают быстрый и положительный эффект.

Известно, что восковые спирты имеют побочное действие, которое проявляется в виде образования комедонов, прежде всего это относится к обладателям жирной кожи. Но появление угревой сыпи в качестве побочного эффекта после использования жирного спирта напрямую зависит от формулы вещества. В составе тоников, гелей, кремов и масок фирмы Deoproce нет компонентов, которые провоцируют проникновение жирного спирта в кожный покров. Таким образом, абсолютно вся косметика Deoproce не является комедогенной и ее можно использовать, не беспокоясь о том, что однажды на лице появятся прыщи или черные точки.

• Увлажняющий дневной крем Daily Facial Moisturizer (50 мл), производитель Yes To

Прекрасное питательное средство для кожи лица. В состав крема входит токоферол, глицерин и . Средство не только увлажняет, но также смягчает кожу и защищает ее от вредного воздействия ультрафиолета.

Внимательный покупатель, который заботится о своем здоровье, всегда тщательно изучает состав любого средства декоративной и ухаживающей косметики, так как некоторые производители проявляют недобросовестность и используют вредные для организма вещества. Если на этикетке в качестве одного из ингредиентов указан cetearyl alcohol, не стоит беспокоиться – цетеариловый спирт абсолютно безопасен и не имеет ничего общего с привычными для нас видами спирта. Цетилстеариловый спирт необходим для того, чтобы защищать кожный покров от обезвоживания и сохранять свойства косметических препаратов.